2018 Macauley Bacigalupi Chardonnay, Russian River $48.00
The 2018 is an intriguing take on Macauley's Chardonnay not seen in past vintages. Fermented and aged in three different vessels (concrete, stainless steel and French oak) this expression brings out the famous Baciagalupi terroir, and builds on the minerality that the concrete vat offers. A spectrum of earthy notes here, from wet grey stone to white clay, expands with the temperature. Too cold, and this wine opens rather slowly. The same is true in the mouth, where citrus and lemon drop candy dance lightly. A fresh non-malolactic acidity adds a bit of zippiness to this young white. The finish, however, goes on and on. Winemaker Kirk Venge suggested that this wine be poured at 38 to 42 degrees Fahrenheit to get the most out of the glass. We see the makings of fine Burgundy characters developing over time with this wine.